A tale of the Laspur-Kumrat Trek
These trails connect Laspur to Gilgit Baltistan, Swat, Dir Kohistan, and Kumrat. But the historical significance of Laspur goes back much further, as archaeological evidence suggests traces of human presence dating as far back as 1800 BC.
Throughout history, Laspur has played a pivotal role in the cultural exchange and the movement of expeditions across its mountain passes. It served as a vital trade route connecting Dir, Swat, Gilgit, Afghanistan, and Western and Eastern Turkistan. As a result, Laspur stands as a valley of rich cultural fusion, evident in both its material and non-material heritage.
In this rich narrative spanning five days, naturalist Shams Uddin shares with readers his journey through this remarkable region.
At midday, we hopped into a 4-wheeled jeep, driven by Niat, a driver from the village of Brok.
Accompanying me was Mr. Ali Nawaz, a dedicated trekker, budding tour guide, and a well-trained social worker. Little did we know that this adventure would become an unforgettable experience.
As we headed towards Laspur valley, fate had a pleasant surprise in store for us. One of the fellow passengers in the jeep turned out to be Mr. Shahidullah Yaftali, the son of Amirullah Yaftali, a gracious host who would later facilitate our visit to his father's remarkable home-based museum in the village of Harchin, Laspur Valley.
Our journey took us through Shaidas, the first village in the valley, where a lively wedding party was in full swing. We were welcomed with a delicious porridge seasoned with veal soup, known as "lazhek." The taste was simply exquisite, and it left us craving for more.
Our journey through Laspur led us to the village of Harchin, where we had the privilege of visiting a home-based ethnological museum established by Mr. Amirullah Yaftali, the eldest son of 'Baba-e-Laspur.' This museum is a treasure trove of the Kho culture's valuable material heritage from Laspur and Ghizer valleys.
The antique items on display tell the stories of the local culture and have been meticulously preserved and documented. Each artifact is accompanied by informative notes that make it easily comprehensible for visitors. It serves as a window into events that transpired thousands of years ago.
The cultural artifacts are divided into various themes, ranging from war and weaponry to freestyle polo, farming tools, primitive leather products, indigenous woodcraft, and music. This museum is a haven for students, from school to university, looking to conduct research on Kho culture. It provides an alternative perspective on local culture and history and plays a critical role in preserving the indigenous culture and language.
The museum is conveniently located by the roadside and management welcomes guests with open arms. The nominal entry fee varies for different groups, ranging from foreign and national tourists to locals and students. It is a must-visit destination for anyone passing through the valley.
You can also still find precious cultural artifacts from the past carefully preserved in the local homes.
The area also boasts numerous trout fishing farms that cater to tourists at reasonable prices.
As the day drew to a close, we reached Balim Bridge, where we were warmly received by Mr. Mustansir Hussain, the son of forester Zaheer Shah. We were invited to their home for the night as we prepared to embark on our trek the following morning. The family's hospitality was heartwarming, and they treated us to a traditional dinner that left us deeply grateful.
Balim, sitting at an elevation of 2,911 meters, is a beautiful village known for producing a cadre of high-profile literati, writers, and other professionals who have made their mark at the national level. Notably, it's the birthplace of Dr. Inayatullah Faizi, a renowned columnist, prolific writer, poet, and scholar. Balim is also the launching point for the base camp of Booni Zom, a towering peak that stands at 6,542 meters.
Under the vast night sky, we sat outside, mesmerized by the full moon rising from behind the jagged mountains to the east, near Shandur. It was a breathtaking scene that stirred our creative spirits and allowed us to connect with nature in a profound way. Such closeness to nature has a way of purifying emotions and freeing the soul from the complexities of daily life.
As we prepared for our adventure ahead, we charged our power banks, cameras, and mobile devices.
Anticipation for the spectacular trek that awaited us the next day filled the air, and our excitement knew no bounds.
Day 2: Wednesday, August 25, 2021 – The Bashqar Lake Expedition
Our journey on this remarkable trek from Laspur to Bashqar Lake commenced at the break of dawn, precisely at 03:30 AM. We embarked on a trail that led us from Balim to Sor Laspur, crossing a bridge that took us to the left side of the valley. Our path traced the southern edge of the village before finally ushering us into the wonderous landscape of Bashqar Gol.
As the early morning light came, we strolled through a stunning polo field named 'Shahi Jinali.' This is where you witness the passion of Laspur Valley's polo players. Freestyle polo is not just a sport here; it's a way of life for both the young and old. Harchin and Sor Laspur often serve as the stages for thrilling polo matches, and Balim village boasts another polo pitch. For tourists, horseback riding is a significant source of entertainment in these parts.
Throughout our journey, we encountered locals from Laspur who were in the high pastures, tending to their livestock and gathering fuelwood and fodder for the approaching winter. At one point, we stumbled upon the half-eaten remains of a goat, a grim reminder of the presence of a formidable pack of 12 wolves that roam in Bashqar Gol. These predators regularly pose a threat to the villagers' livestock. As a protective measure, they take turns patrolling the pastures to ensure their animals remain safe.
Bashqar Gol, located in Chitral district, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, is an ecologically crucial watershed of Laspur Valley. It shares its borders with Swat, Gilgit Baltistan, Madaklasht, and Golain Valley of Chitral. The rugged ridges of this mountainous region are adorned with scree, forming three vast and open valleys, each having a fast-flowing, icy-cold stream.
But what makes this place truly exceptional is its three natural lakes, which act as a water reservoir for the communities downstream. Further, these lakes provide a safe haven for migratory birds passing through the valley annually.
Bashqar Gol is also home to a diverse array of wildlife, including Himalayan Ibex, Snow Leopard, Brown Bear, Himalayan Lynx, Pallas Fishing Cat, Fox, Wolf, and Jackal. The avifauna here is amazing, with 19 bird species representing 13 families. This includes insectivores, omnivores, carnivores, granivores, and herbivores, creating a uniqueness of birdlife in the area.
The vegetation in this area is equally fascinating, with Willow, Himalayan Birch, Poplar, and Sea Buck Thorn being among the many species that adorn this wilderness. These plants, along with the alpine flowers, paint a vibrant and picturesque landscape.
Our ascent took us to Nalgah (2914m), Noghabad (3911m), Soobar (3027m), and finally, Kachikhani nullah (3052m) by 8:00 AM. Here, we had to brave an icy stream flowing from the Kachikhani glacier. The numbing cold left us shivering, but we managed to cross and prepare our breakfast on the other side.
By 10:00 AM, we were ready for the next leg of our journey. I couldn't help but look ahead with anticipation; next year, I am determined to tackle the Katchkhani Trek to Mahodan Lake.
Our steps led us to Ghondoisht (3305m) by 10:54 AM, where we followed the Bashqar Gol river alongside Garik Ghari (3243m) to the west. Here, we encountered local people engaged in the harvest of barley crops. What made this harvest special was its organic nature. These crops were cultivated with only organic manure, avoiding chemical fertilizers. Those who partake in bread made from this organic barley flour are truly fortunate.
Beyond this point, the trek presented us with challenging terrain. Heavy boulders and steep inclines slowed our pace. It was at Pindoro Coch (3401m), a location with a cold spring and a birch forest, that we crossed paths with three trekkers from Lahore making their descent to Laspur.
We paused here to prepare our lunch, indulging in a meal of noodles and tea. By 2:30 PM, we set our sights on Bashqar Lake, and the scenery around us began to unfurl in all its breathtaking beauty. It was a photographer's paradise, and we couldn't resist capturing these stunning vistas.
From this vantage point, we caught a glimpse of the glaciated pass to the west, leading to Golain Valley. After 13 hours of trekking, we finally reached the majestic Bashqar Lake (3569m) at 5:30 PM. Here, amidst a forest surrounded by abundant dried twigs, we pitched our tent. The lake wasn't the only sight to behold; we also spotted giant yaks in the vicinity. They greeted us with hisses and grumbles, reminding us that we were guests in their territory.
As the night descended, a brisk wind picked up, but inside our tent, it was surprisingly cozy. We had limited space inside, so we cleverly strung our bags and shoes on the branches of a tall birch tree to safeguard our belongings from nocturnal prowlers like foxes and wolves.
Morning came at 5:00 AM, and after a hearty breakfast and some picturesque shots of the lake, we were ready for the next phase of our journey by 6:17 AM.
Day 3: Thursday, August 26, 2021, Trekking from Bashqar Lake to Zhoki Lake
Our journey beyond the serene Bashqar Gol Lake unfolded with an inviting path that meandered through lush, and grassy pastures. By the time the clock struck 8:00 AM, we had ventured as far as Chato Warz, marking the terminus of the lake. Here, to the east, the Manial Stream beckoned, promising passage to Gabral in the Swat Valley via the challenging Manial Pass and Glacier. Crossing the stream was not without its thrill, as its icy waters invited us to wade through and forge ahead to the right side of our trek.
Further along our route, we came upon Biti Mol (3570m), an idyllic spot tailor-made for weary trekkers. This oasis brimmed with vibrant flora and lush vegetation, a respite for the senses. It was here that we encountered Rehmat, a nomad from Shoghor Gol in Chitral Lower. His hospitality knew no bounds as he was kind enough to prepare tea for us. To bolster our energy reserves for the journey, we gratefully accepted boiled goat milk and cheese from him. Rehmat regaled us with tales of his 41-day journey to this point, a three month’s sojourn that began on this pasture. He had a loyal retinue of dogs, goats, livestock, and horses, essential companions for moving his family and cargo across these rugged terrains.
Our departure from Biti Moli was at 9:45 AM, setting off along a well-trodden trail that led us to Mikamaro Shotar (3623m). Our next pitstop was Shoti Char (3708m), a place where we would cook our lunch. The bountiful presence of fuelwood in the vicinity made the task straightforward. After a satisfying meal and a rejuvenating cup of tea, we harvested some dried twigs to carry with us. This foresight was prompted by our research, which indicated a dearth of fuelwood at our destination, Zhoki Lake.
Continuing our ascent, an amazing spectacle revealed itself to the west—a breathtaking waterfall gracing the main trekking route. Intrigued, we ventured closer to the cascading beauty, capturing stunning photographs of the emerald surroundings and unique flora that thrived this hilly enclave.
Finally, Zhoki Lake (4146m) welcomed us with its tranquil expanse. Here, serendipity intervened as we encountered a group of 12 fellow trekkers from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa region. They were on their third day of trekking, having commenced their journey at Gok Shai (3730m) on the Kumrat side. Among this group, we found a familiar face: Mr. Farnood Alam, a famous columnist, writer, naturalist, and seasoned trekker. We had crossed paths with him during his visit to Booni this summer, and our reunion was filled with mutual delight.
As day turned to night, we set up camp near one another, coming together to share the warmth of a bonfire. Amidst the crackling flames, we swapped stories, laughter, and camaraderie, capping off a day of exploration and forging new friendships before we retired to our tents beneath the star-studded sky.
Day 4: Friday, August 27, 2021, Trekking from Zhoki Lake to Dojanga
Our day began at the crack of dawn, departing from the tranquil shores of Zhoki Lake (4146m) at 6:00 AM. The terrain, while not overly steep, demanded a watchful stride as we traversed over glaciated boulders. As we pressed forward, we encountered a juncture where we paused to prepare our breakfast before continuing the journey.
The trail led us to the furthest reaches of the Laspur pasture, a site where two colossal yaks leisurely grazed. Our path eventually unveiled a picturesque lake ensconced within the embrace of a glacier. This was a moment of serene contemplation as we captured a trove of photographs, all the while bearing witness to the impact of climate change. The glacier showed visible signs of erosion, and chunks of ice floated adrift on the lake's crystalline waters. The eerie creaks and groans of the glacier's recession echoed through the landscape, underscoring the dire influence of global warming in this remote corner of the world. The altitude of this glacial spectacle measured 4080m.
Continuing our trek, we reached the pinnacle of our ascent at 4229m, before commencing our descent from the Thallu Pass (4128m). The pass unveiled yet another gem—a small lake whose waters streamed towards the Kumrat side. To the left, a hanging glacier birthed a stream that flowed down to Shahzore Lake (3370m) below. Our descent from the pass, though downward in trajectory, presented no formidable challenges. The path led us through a narrow gorge flanked by two imposing mountains, a picturesque journey brimming with diverse wildflowers that adorned the landscape. At an altitude of 3517m, we encountered Himalayan Birch trees that stood tall and robust, in stark contrast to their smaller, bushier counterparts on the Bashqar Gol side. The variation may well be attributed to differences in soil fertility and climatic conditions. Here, we also enjoyed the company of avian companions, including Hoopoe, Alpine Chough, Crows, and Wagtails.
Our journey carried us to Gor Shai (3028m), a pastoral expanse where a lone herdsman tended to his livestock. Engaging in a conversation about our route, he informed us that we could reach our destination, Dojanga (2602m), by 6:30 PM. As the day waned, we reached the designated camping site in Dojanga by 7:00 PM, our weariness evident. With a hearty dinner, we replenished our energy and sought the embrace of slumber as early as we could, grateful for another day of adventure in this wonderful wilderness.
Day 5: Saturday, August 28, 2021, Trekking from Dojanga to Thaal, the Finishing Point of the Trek
At 5:00 AM, we rose from our tents, the morning mist clinging to the lush landscape. After a simple yet hearty breakfast of parata and tea, we commenced our descent through one of the most beautiful landscapes our eyes had ever beheld.
The valley that unfolded before us was nothing short of a paradise, with its crystal-clear streams and a dense forest of cedar, pine, maple, and walnut trees. It was a haven for tourists, adventurers, and fellow trekkers, where the very essence of nature seemed to beckon at every step.
Despite the unrelenting tide of commercialization that had recently washed upon these pristine lands, the meadows still retained their natural splendor. It was evident, however, that the surge of unplanned construction and the chaotic blend of tourist infrastructures and makeshift camping spots paid little heed to the delicate balance of nature.
Our journey took us to Kala Chashma (2433m) by 8:00 AM, where we refreshed ourselves with the pure, cold waters of the land. We then pressed onward to Butooth (2372m), pausing for a welcome cup of tea at a combined hotel and camping site. It was on this stretch that we observed villagers diligently harvesting potatoes, with sacks of this humble crop piled by the roadside, waiting for transport.
As we descended further, the valley unfurled its charms, revealing a landscape that seemed straight out of a photographer's dream. We reached Kot Gel (2325m), where we seized the opportunity to charge our mobile devices, albeit for a fee. This location, too, had the potential to be a pristine camping site, but it was marred by the haphazard construction of hotels and camping facilities.
Kumrat Valley, while undeniably one of the most beautiful and unspoiled corners of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, was now grappling with the scourge of unchecked commercialization. It was a pivotal moment for the government to impose stringent standards of development and implement an effective waste disposal system to safeguard the valley's natural beauty. The involvement of the Local Government, with additional resources for waste management, was an imperative need.
By 2:30 PM, our trek culminated in Thall (2050m), the administrative headquarters of the Thall tehsil in the Upper Dir district. Here, we arranged for a vehicle to take us to Upper Dir and subsequently secured another ride. By 9:00 PM, under the veil of the night sky, we arrived in Chitral, our journey's end.
Summary and preparation
This trek had etched itself as one of the most picturesque adventures we had ever undertaken. To fellow nature enthusiasts, adventurers, and explorers, we would earnestly recommend embarking on this journey at least once in your lifetime.
For those contemplating this trek, here is a day-wise summary of our journey from the Kumrat side:
- Day One: Dojanga to Gok Shai for Overnight Camping
- Day Two: Gok Shai to Shahzore Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Three: Shahzore Lake to Thallu Pass for Overnight Camping
- Day Four: Thallu Pass to Zhoki Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Five: Zhoki Lake to Bashqar Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Six: Bashqar Lake to Sor Laspur for Overnight Camping
To ensure a fulfilling and safe trek along this route, consider the following tips:
- Respect the standard six-day trek schedule to avoid physical strain and fully appreciate the journey.
- Employ the services of a knowledgeable guide to navigate the terrain effectively.
- Equip yourself with tents, sleeping bags, a quality camera, and a reliable mobile phone with a Power Bank to capture the natural wonders en route.
- Two light metal sticks or one sturdy one is indispensable for stream crossings and trekking on challenging terrain.
- Choose strong, high-grip footwear and safeguard them from nocturnal visitors like jackals, foxes, and wolves.
- Be prepared for chilly nights with warm clothing, a coat, and hats.
- Plan for cooking at high altitudes; carry fuelwood from the Kumrat side to Thallu Pass and Zhoki Lake.
- Water sources are readily available, so hydration won't be a concern.
- Conscientiously manage waste by packing out all litter; never burn waste as it can release harmful emissions into the environment.
Finally, we beseech the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa government to protect Kumrat Valley's natural beauty by regulating tourism, promoting eco-friendly infrastructure, establishing effective waste management, and educating visitors about responsible practices.
Our thanks to all who have embraced this journey with us.
Shams Uddin
These trails connect Laspur to Gilgit Baltistan, Swat, Dir Kohistan, and Kumrat. But the historical significance of Laspur goes back much further, as archaeological evidence suggests traces of human presence dating as far back as 1800 BC.
Throughout history, Laspur has played a pivotal role in the cultural exchange and the movement of expeditions across its mountain passes. It served as a vital trade route connecting Dir, Swat, Gilgit, Afghanistan, and Western and Eastern Turkistan. As a result, Laspur stands as a valley of rich cultural fusion, evident in both its material and non-material heritage.
In this rich narrative spanning five days, naturalist Shams Uddin shares with readers his journey through this remarkable region.
At midday, we hopped into a 4-wheeled jeep, driven by Niat, a driver from the village of Brok.
Accompanying me was Mr. Ali Nawaz, a dedicated trekker, budding tour guide, and a well-trained social worker. Little did we know that this adventure would become an unforgettable experience.
As we headed towards Laspur valley, fate had a pleasant surprise in store for us. One of the fellow passengers in the jeep turned out to be Mr. Shahidullah Yaftali, the son of Amirullah Yaftali, a gracious host who would later facilitate our visit to his father's remarkable home-based museum in the village of Harchin, Laspur Valley.
Our journey took us through Shaidas, the first village in the valley, where a lively wedding party was in full swing. We were welcomed with a delicious porridge seasoned with veal soup, known as "lazhek." The taste was simply exquisite, and it left us craving for more.
Our journey through Laspur led us to the village of Harchin, where we had the privilege of visiting a home-based ethnological museum established by Mr. Amirullah Yaftali, the eldest son of 'Baba-e-Laspur.' This museum is a treasure trove of the Kho culture's valuable material heritage from Laspur and Ghizer valleys.
The antique items on display tell the stories of the local culture and have been meticulously preserved and documented. Each artifact is accompanied by informative notes that make it easily comprehensible for visitors. It serves as a window into events that transpired thousands of years ago.
The cultural artifacts are divided into various themes, ranging from war and weaponry to freestyle polo, farming tools, primitive leather products, indigenous woodcraft, and music. This museum is a haven for students, from school to university, looking to conduct research on Kho culture. It provides an alternative perspective on local culture and history and plays a critical role in preserving the indigenous culture and language.
The museum is conveniently located by the roadside and management welcomes guests with open arms. The nominal entry fee varies for different groups, ranging from foreign and national tourists to locals and students. It is a must-visit destination for anyone passing through the valley.
You can also still find precious cultural artifacts from the past carefully preserved in the local homes.
The area also boasts numerous trout fishing farms that cater to tourists at reasonable prices.
As the day drew to a close, we reached Balim Bridge, where we were warmly received by Mr. Mustansir Hussain, the son of forester Zaheer Shah. We were invited to their home for the night as we prepared to embark on our trek the following morning. The family's hospitality was heartwarming, and they treated us to a traditional dinner that left us deeply grateful.
Balim, sitting at an elevation of 2,911 meters, is a beautiful village known for producing a cadre of high-profile literati, writers, and other professionals who have made their mark at the national level. Notably, it's the birthplace of Dr. Inayatullah Faizi, a renowned columnist, prolific writer, poet, and scholar. Balim is also the launching point for the base camp of Booni Zom, a towering peak that stands at 6,542 meters.
Under the vast night sky, we sat outside, mesmerized by the full moon rising from behind the jagged mountains to the east, near Shandur. It was a breathtaking scene that stirred our creative spirits and allowed us to connect with nature in a profound way. Such closeness to nature has a way of purifying emotions and freeing the soul from the complexities of daily life.
As we prepared for our adventure ahead, we charged our power banks, cameras, and mobile devices.
Anticipation for the spectacular trek that awaited us the next day filled the air, and our excitement knew no bounds.
Day 2: Wednesday, August 25, 2021 – The Bashqar Lake Expedition
Our journey on this remarkable trek from Laspur to Bashqar Lake commenced at the break of dawn, precisely at 03:30 AM. We embarked on a trail that led us from Balim to Sor Laspur, crossing a bridge that took us to the left side of the valley. Our path traced the southern edge of the village before finally ushering us into the wonderous landscape of Bashqar Gol.
As the early morning light came, we strolled through a stunning polo field named 'Shahi Jinali.' This is where you witness the passion of Laspur Valley's polo players. Freestyle polo is not just a sport here; it's a way of life for both the young and old. Harchin and Sor Laspur often serve as the stages for thrilling polo matches, and Balim village boasts another polo pitch. For tourists, horseback riding is a significant source of entertainment in these parts.
Throughout our journey, we encountered locals from Laspur who were in the high pastures, tending to their livestock and gathering fuelwood and fodder for the approaching winter. At one point, we stumbled upon the half-eaten remains of a goat, a grim reminder of the presence of a formidable pack of 12 wolves that roam in Bashqar Gol. These predators regularly pose a threat to the villagers' livestock. As a protective measure, they take turns patrolling the pastures to ensure their animals remain safe.
Bashqar Gol, located in Chitral district, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, is an ecologically crucial watershed of Laspur Valley. It shares its borders with Swat, Gilgit Baltistan, Madaklasht, and Golain Valley of Chitral. The rugged ridges of this mountainous region are adorned with scree, forming three vast and open valleys, each having a fast-flowing, icy-cold stream.
But what makes this place truly exceptional is its three natural lakes, which act as a water reservoir for the communities downstream. Further, these lakes provide a safe haven for migratory birds passing through the valley annually.
Bashqar Gol is also home to a diverse array of wildlife, including Himalayan Ibex, Snow Leopard, Brown Bear, Himalayan Lynx, Pallas Fishing Cat, Fox, Wolf, and Jackal. The avifauna here is amazing, with 19 bird species representing 13 families. This includes insectivores, omnivores, carnivores, granivores, and herbivores, creating a uniqueness of birdlife in the area.
The vegetation in this area is equally fascinating, with Willow, Himalayan Birch, Poplar, and Sea Buck Thorn being among the many species that adorn this wilderness. These plants, along with the alpine flowers, paint a vibrant and picturesque landscape.
Our ascent took us to Nalgah (2914m), Noghabad (3911m), Soobar (3027m), and finally, Kachikhani nullah (3052m) by 8:00 AM. Here, we had to brave an icy stream flowing from the Kachikhani glacier. The numbing cold left us shivering, but we managed to cross and prepare our breakfast on the other side.
By 10:00 AM, we were ready for the next leg of our journey. I couldn't help but look ahead with anticipation; next year, I am determined to tackle the Katchkhani Trek to Mahodan Lake.
Our steps led us to Ghondoisht (3305m) by 10:54 AM, where we followed the Bashqar Gol river alongside Garik Ghari (3243m) to the west. Here, we encountered local people engaged in the harvest of barley crops. What made this harvest special was its organic nature. These crops were cultivated with only organic manure, avoiding chemical fertilizers. Those who partake in bread made from this organic barley flour are truly fortunate.
Beyond this point, the trek presented us with challenging terrain. Heavy boulders and steep inclines slowed our pace. It was at Pindoro Coch (3401m), a location with a cold spring and a birch forest, that we crossed paths with three trekkers from Lahore making their descent to Laspur.
We paused here to prepare our lunch, indulging in a meal of noodles and tea. By 2:30 PM, we set our sights on Bashqar Lake, and the scenery around us began to unfurl in all its breathtaking beauty. It was a photographer's paradise, and we couldn't resist capturing these stunning vistas.
From this vantage point, we caught a glimpse of the glaciated pass to the west, leading to Golain Valley. After 13 hours of trekking, we finally reached the majestic Bashqar Lake (3569m) at 5:30 PM. Here, amidst a forest surrounded by abundant dried twigs, we pitched our tent. The lake wasn't the only sight to behold; we also spotted giant yaks in the vicinity. They greeted us with hisses and grumbles, reminding us that we were guests in their territory.
As the night descended, a brisk wind picked up, but inside our tent, it was surprisingly cozy. We had limited space inside, so we cleverly strung our bags and shoes on the branches of a tall birch tree to safeguard our belongings from nocturnal prowlers like foxes and wolves.
Morning came at 5:00 AM, and after a hearty breakfast and some picturesque shots of the lake, we were ready for the next phase of our journey by 6:17 AM.
Day 3: Thursday, August 26, 2021, Trekking from Bashqar Lake to Zhoki Lake
Our journey beyond the serene Bashqar Gol Lake unfolded with an inviting path that meandered through lush, and grassy pastures. By the time the clock struck 8:00 AM, we had ventured as far as Chato Warz, marking the terminus of the lake. Here, to the east, the Manial Stream beckoned, promising passage to Gabral in the Swat Valley via the challenging Manial Pass and Glacier. Crossing the stream was not without its thrill, as its icy waters invited us to wade through and forge ahead to the right side of our trek.
Further along our route, we came upon Biti Mol (3570m), an idyllic spot tailor-made for weary trekkers. This oasis brimmed with vibrant flora and lush vegetation, a respite for the senses. It was here that we encountered Rehmat, a nomad from Shoghor Gol in Chitral Lower. His hospitality knew no bounds as he was kind enough to prepare tea for us. To bolster our energy reserves for the journey, we gratefully accepted boiled goat milk and cheese from him. Rehmat regaled us with tales of his 41-day journey to this point, a three month’s sojourn that began on this pasture. He had a loyal retinue of dogs, goats, livestock, and horses, essential companions for moving his family and cargo across these rugged terrains.
Our departure from Biti Moli was at 9:45 AM, setting off along a well-trodden trail that led us to Mikamaro Shotar (3623m). Our next pitstop was Shoti Char (3708m), a place where we would cook our lunch. The bountiful presence of fuelwood in the vicinity made the task straightforward. After a satisfying meal and a rejuvenating cup of tea, we harvested some dried twigs to carry with us. This foresight was prompted by our research, which indicated a dearth of fuelwood at our destination, Zhoki Lake.
Continuing our ascent, an amazing spectacle revealed itself to the west—a breathtaking waterfall gracing the main trekking route. Intrigued, we ventured closer to the cascading beauty, capturing stunning photographs of the emerald surroundings and unique flora that thrived this hilly enclave.
Finally, Zhoki Lake (4146m) welcomed us with its tranquil expanse. Here, serendipity intervened as we encountered a group of 12 fellow trekkers from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa region. They were on their third day of trekking, having commenced their journey at Gok Shai (3730m) on the Kumrat side. Among this group, we found a familiar face: Mr. Farnood Alam, a famous columnist, writer, naturalist, and seasoned trekker. We had crossed paths with him during his visit to Booni this summer, and our reunion was filled with mutual delight.
As day turned to night, we set up camp near one another, coming together to share the warmth of a bonfire. Amidst the crackling flames, we swapped stories, laughter, and camaraderie, capping off a day of exploration and forging new friendships before we retired to our tents beneath the star-studded sky.
Day 4: Friday, August 27, 2021, Trekking from Zhoki Lake to Dojanga
Our day began at the crack of dawn, departing from the tranquil shores of Zhoki Lake (4146m) at 6:00 AM. The terrain, while not overly steep, demanded a watchful stride as we traversed over glaciated boulders. As we pressed forward, we encountered a juncture where we paused to prepare our breakfast before continuing the journey.
The trail led us to the furthest reaches of the Laspur pasture, a site where two colossal yaks leisurely grazed. Our path eventually unveiled a picturesque lake ensconced within the embrace of a glacier. This was a moment of serene contemplation as we captured a trove of photographs, all the while bearing witness to the impact of climate change. The glacier showed visible signs of erosion, and chunks of ice floated adrift on the lake's crystalline waters. The eerie creaks and groans of the glacier's recession echoed through the landscape, underscoring the dire influence of global warming in this remote corner of the world. The altitude of this glacial spectacle measured 4080m.
Continuing our trek, we reached the pinnacle of our ascent at 4229m, before commencing our descent from the Thallu Pass (4128m). The pass unveiled yet another gem—a small lake whose waters streamed towards the Kumrat side. To the left, a hanging glacier birthed a stream that flowed down to Shahzore Lake (3370m) below. Our descent from the pass, though downward in trajectory, presented no formidable challenges. The path led us through a narrow gorge flanked by two imposing mountains, a picturesque journey brimming with diverse wildflowers that adorned the landscape. At an altitude of 3517m, we encountered Himalayan Birch trees that stood tall and robust, in stark contrast to their smaller, bushier counterparts on the Bashqar Gol side. The variation may well be attributed to differences in soil fertility and climatic conditions. Here, we also enjoyed the company of avian companions, including Hoopoe, Alpine Chough, Crows, and Wagtails.
Our journey carried us to Gor Shai (3028m), a pastoral expanse where a lone herdsman tended to his livestock. Engaging in a conversation about our route, he informed us that we could reach our destination, Dojanga (2602m), by 6:30 PM. As the day waned, we reached the designated camping site in Dojanga by 7:00 PM, our weariness evident. With a hearty dinner, we replenished our energy and sought the embrace of slumber as early as we could, grateful for another day of adventure in this wonderful wilderness.
Day 5: Saturday, August 28, 2021, Trekking from Dojanga to Thaal, the Finishing Point of the Trek
At 5:00 AM, we rose from our tents, the morning mist clinging to the lush landscape. After a simple yet hearty breakfast of parata and tea, we commenced our descent through one of the most beautiful landscapes our eyes had ever beheld.
The valley that unfolded before us was nothing short of a paradise, with its crystal-clear streams and a dense forest of cedar, pine, maple, and walnut trees. It was a haven for tourists, adventurers, and fellow trekkers, where the very essence of nature seemed to beckon at every step.
Despite the unrelenting tide of commercialization that had recently washed upon these pristine lands, the meadows still retained their natural splendor. It was evident, however, that the surge of unplanned construction and the chaotic blend of tourist infrastructures and makeshift camping spots paid little heed to the delicate balance of nature.
Our journey took us to Kala Chashma (2433m) by 8:00 AM, where we refreshed ourselves with the pure, cold waters of the land. We then pressed onward to Butooth (2372m), pausing for a welcome cup of tea at a combined hotel and camping site. It was on this stretch that we observed villagers diligently harvesting potatoes, with sacks of this humble crop piled by the roadside, waiting for transport.
As we descended further, the valley unfurled its charms, revealing a landscape that seemed straight out of a photographer's dream. We reached Kot Gel (2325m), where we seized the opportunity to charge our mobile devices, albeit for a fee. This location, too, had the potential to be a pristine camping site, but it was marred by the haphazard construction of hotels and camping facilities.
Kumrat Valley, while undeniably one of the most beautiful and unspoiled corners of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, was now grappling with the scourge of unchecked commercialization. It was a pivotal moment for the government to impose stringent standards of development and implement an effective waste disposal system to safeguard the valley's natural beauty. The involvement of the Local Government, with additional resources for waste management, was an imperative need.
By 2:30 PM, our trek culminated in Thall (2050m), the administrative headquarters of the Thall tehsil in the Upper Dir district. Here, we arranged for a vehicle to take us to Upper Dir and subsequently secured another ride. By 9:00 PM, under the veil of the night sky, we arrived in Chitral, our journey's end.
Summary and preparation
This trek had etched itself as one of the most picturesque adventures we had ever undertaken. To fellow nature enthusiasts, adventurers, and explorers, we would earnestly recommend embarking on this journey at least once in your lifetime.
For those contemplating this trek, here is a day-wise summary of our journey from the Kumrat side:
- Day One: Dojanga to Gok Shai for Overnight Camping
- Day Two: Gok Shai to Shahzore Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Three: Shahzore Lake to Thallu Pass for Overnight Camping
- Day Four: Thallu Pass to Zhoki Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Five: Zhoki Lake to Bashqar Lake for Overnight Camping
- Day Six: Bashqar Lake to Sor Laspur for Overnight Camping
To ensure a fulfilling and safe trek along this route, consider the following tips:
- Respect the standard six-day trek schedule to avoid physical strain and fully appreciate the journey.
- Employ the services of a knowledgeable guide to navigate the terrain effectively.
- Equip yourself with tents, sleeping bags, a quality camera, and a reliable mobile phone with a Power Bank to capture the natural wonders en route.
- Two light metal sticks or one sturdy one is indispensable for stream crossings and trekking on challenging terrain.
- Choose strong, high-grip footwear and safeguard them from nocturnal visitors like jackals, foxes, and wolves.
- Be prepared for chilly nights with warm clothing, a coat, and hats.
- Plan for cooking at high altitudes; carry fuelwood from the Kumrat side to Thallu Pass and Zhoki Lake.
- Water sources are readily available, so hydration won't be a concern.
- Conscientiously manage waste by packing out all litter; never burn waste as it can release harmful emissions into the environment.
Finally, we beseech the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa government to protect Kumrat Valley's natural beauty by regulating tourism, promoting eco-friendly infrastructure, establishing effective waste management, and educating visitors about responsible practices.
Our thanks to all who have embraced this journey with us.
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